Peter
Bargetto's tiny Soquel Vineyards winery is a world apart from the
better-known Napa Valley.
It's
about 10 minutes from the town of Soquel and is blessed with a sweeping
ocean view. The impish co-owner of the boutique winery pours wine
for visitors from behind a small wooden bar; red wine stains dot
his ragged T- shirt.
Just
outside, his golden retriever romps with a visitor's dog in a field
of spring grass, tongues lolling from their mouths like scarves
as they clamber into the tasting room. A home winemaker stops in
with a sample of his wine to ask for advice. Later, a question from
a wine-sipping customer prompts Bargetto to lead to an impromptu
tour of the cellar and a barrel tasting.
"We
don't get the visitors all day long like they do in the Napa Valley,
and it makes it special for us when people come out," Bargetto said.
Welcome
to the back-road wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains, home to nearly
50 mostly small wineries that are big on quirky hospitality and
luscious, award-winning wines. The low-key wineries of the mountain
appellation offer an alternative to the bigger wineries on the Napa
Valley tourist circuit. Here, where coastal fog swirls around towering
redwood trees, winemakers craft wine within a challenging climate
and rugged topography.
And
there's no better time than tomorrow to get acquainted with some
of these wineries. From 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., the Santa Cruz Mountains
Winegrowers Association will hold its quarterly passport program.
For $20, visitors get access to 26 wineries, many of them not usually
open to the public.
"The
roads are all small and windy, and the wineries hard to find, but
that's part of the fun," said Shannon Blank, operations manager
for the winegrowers association. "There's a whole different feel
here."
A trip
to some of these aerielike wineries takes as little as 30 minutes
from the hubbub of Silicon Valley below. The wineries' charm comes
from the fact many are intimate and off the beaten path. But the
sylvan setting and the distinct Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Chardonnay and other varietals produced here make the region a hidden
gem.
The
Santa Cruz Mountain appellation runs the length of the rugged Coastal
Range from Mount Madonna in the south to Half Moon Bay in the north
and includes parts of Santa Cruz, Santa Clara and San Mateo counties.
On the warmer eastern slope of the mountains, the appellation begins
at 800 feet; at 400 feet on the ocean-cooled west side. Winegrowers
produce wine from generally low-yielding vineyards on small plots
of land. The results are wines with full, intense flavors and aromas.
Wine
has been produced in the Santa Cruz Mountains since the 1800s. The
region was once known as the chaine d'or (golden chain) for its
high-quality fruit, but few of the original wineries survived Prohibition.
Today, the region is populated with a few big-name standouts such
as Ridge Vineyards, David Bruce Winery and Bonny Doon Vineyard,
but most are small, family-owned wineries like Soquel Vineyards.
SOQUEL
Fourteen-year-old
Soquel Vineyards just opened a new facility on hilltop land once
owned by Bargetto's Italian-born grandfather, John Bargetto. The
new winery is stunning. Step outside the tasting room and look down
a narrow valley to the ocean. The winery is topped with terra-cotta
roof tiles salvaged from a 251-year-old building in Lucca, Italy.
The tiles were made by craftsmen who formed them on their thighs.
The 300-pound cellar doors come from the staves of a wine tank made
of 1,800-year-old first-growth redwood once owned by John Bargetto.
"People
here have a real passion for winemaking, and it really shows," said
Bargetto, who owns the winery with his twin brother, Peter, and
business partner, Jon Morgan.
They
plan to plant 4 acres of vineyards on the site to supplement grapes
they get from elsewhere in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Many of the
area's wineries don't grow their own grapes. Because of expensive
land prices and hilly terrain, there are only about 800 acres of
vineyards in production.
CINNABAR
The
road to Cinnabar Vineyards and Winery is definitely less traveled.
The dirt driveway is 2 miles long. Some delivery truck drivers won't
make the trek, but for the adventurous wine lover, the drive is
worth it. Perched 1,650 feet above the Santa Clara Valley on a verdant
hilltop above Saratoga off Highway 9, the 15-acre winery has won
fistful of awards for its Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah.
"It's
like climbing a mountain," said Ron Mosley, Cinnabar's vineyard
and estate manager. "You get to the top as it's like, 'Wow, this
is great.' "
Because
the mountain wineries have to contend with difficult terrain, vine-
munching deer and gophers, fast-moving Pacific storms, and isolation
from other wineries, the region produces a unique individual, Mosley
said.
"You
have to be a rugged person," he said. "It takes two or three times
as much effort to do anything.
" But
just as vines that struggle produce the best wine, the labors of
Santa Cruz Mountains winemakers have their rewards too, he said.
"It's harder to make a great wine out of the grapes we get here
but when we do it goes beyond," he said. "It's spiritually worth
it."
BONNY
DOON
Bonny
Doon Vineyard, located about 10 miles north of Santa Cruz off Highway
1, is the largest winery in the appellation. Its production dwarfs
the other mountain wineries. But in spite of its size, Bonny Doon
Vineyard remains distinctly Santa Cruz. The winery is the court
jester of the wine world, slipping enological whoopee cushions under
an industry known for its staid public image. With its fanciful
label artwork and pun-filled wine names such as Critique of Pure
Riesling and Cardinal Zin, the winery fits in well with Santa Cruz's
different-drummer reputation.
The
woody tasting room feels more like a party than a place for pompous
glass swirling. One employee plays a tune on his didgeridoo each
time a customer signs up for the winery's wine club. Once, a visitor
wearing a Scottish kilt and with bagpipes in tow ended up behind
the bar playing for a happy crowd.
"It's
a very relaxed atmosphere, even playful," said winery spokesman
John Locke, whose business card refers to him as "vinarchist." "When
people come to Santa Cruz, they expect a different experience."
San
Francisco resident Nicole Samarron came to the winery recently with
her mother, Roxelle Samarron, for that experience. Nicole Samarron
said wine tasting in the Napa Valley can be a little stuffy at times.
"It's
more young and fun here," she said as she and her mother scribbled
down tasting notes about wines they tried. "You don't see a didgeridoo
when you go there."
In
spite of its laid-back style, Bonny Doon takes its wines seriously.
The winery has built its reputation on lesser-known varietals from
France, Germany and Italy and works with small grape producers from
all over the world.
OBESTER
Half
Moon Bay's Obester Winery is the northernmost of the mountain wineries.
It's
right off Highway 92, just east of the city limits. Paul and Sandy
Obester owned the winery for 25 years, but decided they had earned
a rest and sold it to 36-year-old Kendyl Kellogg last month. Kellogg
had grown tired of her career as a Silicon Valley marketing executive
and decided owning a winery was the perfect antidote. She has thrown
herself into her new life with exuberance, doing everything from
driving a truck to hosing out wine tanks.
While
ownership of the winery has changed, the beloved "bring your own
bottle" event has not. Several times a year, the winery throws open
its cellar doors to the public with an irresistible offer: cheap
wine. Wine lovers line up with empty bottles, and the winery fills
them with low-cost but good wine. At this month's event it was Cabernet
Franc, $3.95 a bottle.
"The
first person in line was Paul (Obester)," Kellogg said. "I told
him , 'I can tell this is your first time here because you only
brought one bottle.' "
Redwood
City resident Stacey Ringham queued up for wine in the dank cellar,
watching the bottles get filled, corked and labeled. She has been
coming to the event for about five years.
"It's
really a family atmosphere," she said, pushing her 20-month-old
son, Charles, in a stroller. "People bring their dogs, and they
cruise around. It's nice after you've come for a while and people
start to recognize you."
Kellogg
said she never considered doing away with the event, which has been
held for about 16 years. "People are amazed to see the winemaking
process," she said. "It's fun for them to participate."
AHLGREN
Twenty-six-year-old
Ahlgren Vineyard's rustic beauty is emblematic of the Santa Cruz
Mountains. Located on Highway 9 about 7 miles west of Skyline Boulevard,
the winery sits below Dexter and Valerie Ahlgren's redwood-hewn
home. Fermentation tanks and grape crushers stand at the edge of
the driveway. Inside the cozy cellar, the heady smell of oak barrels
and wine greet visitors.
The
"tasting room" is a white tablecloth draped over a piece of plywood
atop a grape crusher. The table is a lot like Santa Cruz Mountains
wines: an unpretentious setting topped with great wine.
In
a testament to the Ahlgren's independent mountain spirit, the winery
and house are not connected to a municipal water system. They get
water from the approximately 50 inches of rain that falls each year,
catching runoff from the roof.
Sunnyvale
residents Joseph and Judy Muchowski have been trekking to Ahlgren
Vineyard for years. They prefer it to the tourist-laden Napa Valley.
"The
most important difference is it's not wall-to-wall people," said
Joseph Muchowski.
As
the producer of first-rate Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay,
Valerie Ahlgren has made it something of a mission to educate flatlanders
that the Santa Cruz Mountains is their wine country.
"When
people come up here, they say they're never going to go to Napa
again, " she said. "Silicon Valley has to really come see this as
their wine area."
----------------------------------------------------------
Getting
a passport
For
more information about Santa Cruz Mountains wine or the passport
program, call the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association at
(831) 479- 9463.
1 Soquel
Vineyards: 7880 Glen Haven Rd., Soquel. Open for tasting and sales
10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. on Saturday. (831) 462-9045.
2 Cinnabar
Vineyard and Winery: 23000 Congress Springs Rd., Saratoga. Open
to public only on passport days. (408) 741-5858.
3 Bonny
Doon Vineyard: 10 Pine Flat Rd., Santa Cruz. Open daily from 11
a.m. to 5 p.m. (831) 425-4518.
4 Ahlgren
Vineyard: 20320 Highway 9, Boulder Creek. Open noon to 4 p.m. Saturday.
(831) 338-6071. . Chronicle Graphic
|